A Parisian Enchantment
Ah, Paris – the city of light, love, and endless inspiration. As I wake up on my last full day in this enchanted metropolis, a heavy feeling settles in my heart. After only a few days here, there’s a sense of familiarity, as if I’ve been swept up in the city’s joie de vivre.
I think of a lovely quote from Ernest Hemingway that rings so true: “There are only two places in the world where we can live happy – at home and in Paris.” With the morning to myself, I set out to wander the streets of the 7th and 6th arrondissements, letting my curiosity guide me through the cobblestone lanes.
The pace of life in Paris seems perfectly suited for strolling – no one ever appears too rushed. The city itself is as important as its culture, and I find myself continuously inspired by the breathtaking architecture, from the vibrant doors to the intricate doorknobs. It’s like walking through an outdoor art gallery, with surprises around every corner.
As I wander, I stumble upon a building where the famous artist Picasso had his studio from 1936 to 1955 – the very site where he painted his renowned work, Guernica. Balzac also set the plot of his novella Le Chef d’Oeuvre Inconnu in this historic building. I can only imagine the countless artists and writers who have passed through these doors over the centuries.
Discovering Atelier Lison De Caunes
As I hurry my steps, I’m eager to arrive at my final destination – a workshop I’ve been looking forward to visiting: Atelier Lison De Caunes. This is where I’ll discover the true embodiment of a master artisan, Lison de Caunes, and the unique craft she has single-handedly brought back to life: straw marquetry.
I’m warmly greeted by Lison’s daughter, Pauline, who oversees the atelier’s management. Before I sit down to talk with Lison, Pauline wants to show me the workshops. We step out into the street, accompanied by Ziggy, the adorable French bulldog who seems to be the unofficial ambassador of the studio.
As we pass through a nondescript doorway, I’m transported into a Secret Garden – a cobblestone courtyard surrounded by small white buildings with green trim and ivy. It feels like a magical, intimate place, where the true artistry of straw marquetry is brought to life.
The Revival of a Prestigious Savoir-Faire
Lison’s fascination with straw marquetry began in her childhood, when she spent time in her grandfather’s workshop. André Groult, the famous interior and furniture designer, had single-handedly revived this 17th-century French technique during the Art Deco period of the 1920s. His intricate creations were highly sought after, becoming the embodiment of Art Deco’s use of pattern.
Lison tells me that when she wanted to learn the craft, there was no place that taught this forgotten art. So, she set out to master it on her own, restoring her grandfather’s pieces and falling deeply in love with the process. In the 1980s, she began her quest to show that straw marquetry could be a beautiful art form, merging with contemporary design and interiors.
Over the years, Lison has collaborated with renowned designers such as Jacques Grange, Jean-Louis Deniot, and Peter Marino, who have commissioned her work for prestigious clients like Louis Vuitton and Guerlain. She has even created special pieces for luxury brands like Hermès, reproducing their silk scarves in straw marquetry.
Today, Lison’s personal line, Lison de Caunes Créations, features stunning furniture, wall panels, and interior decor, all crafted with her exceptional straw marquetry technique. But her greatest satisfaction lies in knowing that she has preserved this art form and ensured it won’t fall back into oblivion.
The Mastery of Straw Marquetry
As I step into the design studio, I’m immediately struck by the bustling activity. Two chic interior designers from Zurich are discussing designs with Lison, while her sister, Marie, is creating samples on a worktable. The room is filled with an air of creativity and collaboration.
Pauline then takes me to see the artisans at work in the workshops. I watch in awe as they carefully lay down delicate strips of rye straw, side by side, to create exquisite pieces. The thin strands are meticulously flattened and adhered to the surface, with a tool run over the top to ensure a smooth, seamless finish.
The resulting pieces are nothing short of breathtaking. The straw, in its natural tones or dyed in a range of colors, takes on a stunning, multidimensional effect. The gradients and textural variations in each strip of straw create a mesmerizing visual that almost feels like the artist’s own brushstrokes.
I’m reminded of the Neoclassical style, where marquetry was still widely used for decoration, with some cabinets even featuring panels of Japanese lacquer. But in Lison’s work, the humble straw is transformed into something truly extraordinary – from shimmering gold to precious jewels, the possibilities are endless.
A Family Legacy of Craftsmanship
As I explore the workshop further, I’m struck by the tangible presence of Lison’s family legacy. Several of her grandfather’s pieces hang on the walls, a wonderful reminder of the tradition that she is helping to carry on.
Lison proudly shows me a double portrait done in straw marquetry, a work of art her grandfather created in the 1920s. She tells me that he is still watching over the family, a constant inspiration for why she is so passionate about preserving this exceptional craft.
Lison’s journey has been one of dedication and perseverance. When she first began her work over 40 years ago, no one was practicing straw marquetry. But through her tireless efforts, the art form has been revived and is now taught at the prestigious École Boulle in Paris. Lison is ensuring that this savoir-faire will live on, passing her knowledge to the next generation of artisans in her workshop.
For her exceptional mastery, Lison was awarded the prestigious title of Maître d’Art in 1996 by the French Ministry of Culture, a distinction reserved for only the most exceptional craftspeople. In 2010, she was further honored with the Chevalière de la Légion d’Honneur, France’s highest decoration.
As I leave the atelier, I’m struck by the sense of family and legacy that permeates not just Lison’s work, but the ethos of Unfinished Furniture as a whole. Just like our other partners, Declercq Passementiers, Jouffre, and Atelier de Ricou, Lison and her team carry on traditions that will be passed down through generations to come.
An Afternoon at Galerie Época
After my time at Atelier Lison De Caunes, I dash back to the 7th arrondissement to meet my friend Maïk, who has promised an unexpected surprise. As we step through the doors of Galerie Época, I feel like I’ve entered Alice in Wonderland’s Looking Glass.
The gallery is a true cabinet of curiosities, with fantastical tableaux at every turn. The owner, Mony Linz-Einstein – who happens to be the great-grand niece of Albert Einstein – enthusiastically shows me one intriguing object after another. There’s a dining table with a glass top and beautiful drawings that move beneath it, a rocking chair with elk feet, and a sofa that once belonged to a maharaja.
It’s a magical world to explore, and I’m captivated by Mony’s passion for the unusual and the intriguing. This unexpected discovery is a fitting end to my Parisian adventure, a reminder that true inspiration can be found in the most unexpected of places.
Adieu, Paris
The next morning, I reluctantly drag myself out of bed, my week in Paris coming to a close. On the way to the airport, I ask the taxi driver to take a detour so I can see Notre-Dame Cathedral. My heart sinks as I gaze upon the scaffolding and the missing roof and spire, a testament to the devastating fire that struck the iconic monument just a year ago.
Yet, like the Neoclassical style that shaped so much of French design, I know Notre-Dame will be rebuilt to its former glory. Its restoration will be the most important construction of modern times, and I can only hope that the exceptional craftspeople of Ateliers Saint-Jacques will play a role in nursing this architectural treasure back to wholeness.
As the taxi driver changes course for the airport, I gaze out the window and bid adieu to this magical city, filled with the spirit of creation and the enduring pursuit of beauty. Paris will always be a source of inspiration, a place where the secrets of the past are woven into the artistry of the present. And in the workshops of Lison de Caunes, I’ve discovered a true revival of an art form that embodies the very essence of Parisian enchantment.
